When to Purchase a Metal Building

Have you decided to go for a metal building considering all its advantages? Are you sure but do not know where to start? Does the when question bother you often?

7 Tips for choosing THE RIGHT TIME to purchase a metal building

Do your homework Find out what, why and where

The first step is to know what to buy and from where. Have a basic idea about what exactly you want, what is your budget and when do you plan to buy it beforehand. This brings clarity and purpose. Next, you should search for various options available. For example Who are the various dealers? What is their specialization? What do they offer? What is the best price? What do friends recommend? Be absolutely sure about a dealer before buying or even deciding upon a dealer.

Quality comes first Avoid being foisted

We have stories like an XYZ buying a new amalgam of metal which was unbelievably cheap and later realizing that it was just not what he had bargained for. Contrary to what some dealers would tell you, all metals are not the same. In fact, the same metal can vary in quality. The cheaper is rarely, if ever, the best option. Do not compromise on quality.

The last piece is never the last option Dismiss Pressure tactics

Be wary of the dealer keen on selling you the last piece of a most extraordinary building or the one selling you a cancelled order at half-the-price. These are pressure tactics to stop you from investigating further.

In-sync with the times what suits best

You ought to be aware of the latest trends in the metal building industry to make the best bargain. See the latest styles and be aware of the newest trends. Is your dealer selling you a stone-age style building?

Name does matter Reputation counts

If confused, choose the brand. When there is nothing else to judge, it is safer to go with a known brand. Refer to customer testimonials and hear it straight from the horses mouth.

Buy rather than built a better option

Prefabricated buildings enable erection of buildings to be a do-it-yourself thing. It is better to choose a company which can tell you where to buy from in place of a company selling a building.

What do you want as per requirements?

For instance, do you require a steel building with clear span, modular or single slope frames? Where do you want the doors to be placed? Are you comfortable communicating with your dealer? Get full value for your money clarify your requirements.

Mike Zhmudikov is a professional copywriter and seo consultant.

Gutter Types - How To Choose The Best Rain Gutters For Your Home

If you are like most homeowners you don't give much thought on gutters and downspouts, but they certainly play an important role in the upkeep of your home.

Leaking rain gutters can cause a wide array of problems, from just an inconvenience of getting wet from them dripping on your head, to major damage with water leaking into your basement or rotting the wood on your roof and siding.

So, if you're looking to replace your guttering system, the big question is what type of gutters are the best? Let's look at the various types you have to choose from.

Steel Gutters

If you are looking for strength a steel guttering system is your choice here. Steel holds up to the elements better than any other type of gutters. They will basically last forever. The one major drawback with steel is that it can rust over time unless you treat them.

Copper Gutters

The durability and visual appeal make copper gutters an excellent choice for your home. They are easy to maintain and hold up to rain water very well. The major drawback with copper is 1111that it can discolor over the years. What starts out as shiny and gold can turn to dark brown or green over time due to oxidation. With that said, there are sealants you can apply to help prevent this from happening. The tradeoff is increased costs and the time involved.

Aluminum Gutters

The selling points with aluminum guttering is their light weight and affordability. They are the most economical rain gutter option. Aluminum is not as strong as steel or copper, but they still hold up well to the different weather elements. Their biggest drawback is the maintenance involved. They require more frequent attention than other types of rain gutters.

Vinyl Gutters

Vinyl gutters provide you with a system that is lightweight and virtually maintenance free. They also give you a variety of colors to choose from that other gutters do not. The drawbacks to them are their lack of strength and the fact they are subject to the effects of hot or cold weather.

By the way, you can learn more about Rain Gutters as well as much more information on all types of gutters and downspouts at http://www.GuttersA-Z.com

Building A Guitar Part Two - The Timber

For those amongst us who play guitar and are fairly adept with their hands, the thought of building your own guitar must have crossed your mind at some point.....go on, you know it's true! Probably, like me you shrank back from the very thought of having to work to the peak of perfection to a standard that you never dreamed you could achieve. But there are a few secrets, and the best one I reckon is that each stage of the build must be approached with precision, each stage an individual project in itself.

This includes the planning of the whole project and that includes the selection of all of the components that go to make up the guitar itself. Dont worry about, for example, the tools at this point in time....do a seperate project when it comes to those...see where I'm heading? In this series of articles I will discuss the various requirements of the build and naturally, one of the critical aspects of your guitar will be the selections of exactly which tonewoods you will select for your creation. There are a couple of ways of going about the first build. You can decide that this guitar will be crafted from the finest of timbers that money can buy, thus creating the 'ultimate guitar" you know, the kind of Maton or Martin, Guild or Gibson that you will never be able to afford ( not in this lifetime anyway).the best of everything, spruce bracing, brazilian rosewood guitar sides, or classical tonewoods for your guitar, Japanese maple , ebony fingerboard or a Japanese or even Australian maple back and sides. Some of the more mentally afflicted amongst us may dream of Koa, the ultimate luxury I'm told. I even have a friend who owns a Koa Martin,how dare he?

On the other hand, there are many that think in a kind of negative way. "I'll knock the first one up out of Mahogany plywood, If I stuff it up, it wont be such a disaster,will it?" Well, personally, I reckon that's a built in attitude that will definitely put the mockers on it right from the word go. Use the best you can possibly afford but dont be blinded so that you pay out thousands from some unscrupulous mother that sees you coming, half a block away. Do some serious enquiring before you spend out those hard earned dollars. Even to the point where you may well, with the help of the internet, source your rarish timbers from another country or another State. They may well be a hell of a lot cheaper than you would ever begin to realise and many suppliers are keen to do business with you. You would not believe the difference in prices that I found when I was pricing up the timber for my Weissenborn acoustic lap steel guitar. It varied from about two hundred bucks for Mahogany to a thousand for the same thing!

So what are we looking at? The traditional tonewoods depend on the type of guitar you want to build. It will be very different for a Spanish style classical , different again for a weissenborn or slide and different again for a standard steel string guitar. A typical scenario would be close grained spruce for the soundboard, no imperfections or discolourations. Brazilian rosewood guitar sides or even East indian rosewood sides, Mahogany will also do very well here. I own a lovely little guitar made for me by a friend who just lives and breathes guitars. It is built from Californian Redwood, lock stock and barrel apart from the fingerboard which is rosewood. It sounds as sweet as a nut and looks so pretty too. So be prepared to encompass some different ideas too when selecting your wood. I was interested as to why the bridge should always be rosewood, ebony or a derivitive. I wondered why I couldn't make mine from Maple. I enquired found no reason why not and therefore did it. It works perfectly, the only thing I have to be careful of is that because it is sofeter than tradition hardwoods normally used, it can be dented when changing the strings. TIP: use a small spoon to lever the strings out of the peg holes.. it doesnt dent so much as when you use something else.

So, the finger board is also traditionally made from East indian Rosewood, A harder mahogany, Obeche or similar. However, for a weissenborn as the fingers never play on the timber, therefore wont wear it away over the years, a softer wood is an option. Usually a darker one is preferable as they do get dirtier quicker. Then again look at the blond Fender necks that are so popular of late! One thing I do urge you to do, look outside the square when selecting your timbers for your guitars. The timber that has been raped to death for guitar building are supposed to be in terrifyingly short supply nand therefore the prices are at a premium and the remaining trees are being threatened. I'm no greenie but good sense should prevail here! You can achieve a couple of blows for good sense at the same time if you choose alternative timbers that may well do the job required of them. Talk to people in the business, hear their views on certain timbers and reason out your choices. The internet is a great option here, just look under Australian Maple for example, its a great timber and I'm a stout flagbearer for it, Blackwood too, close cousins of the very rare and expensive Koa that seems to be disappearing fast. dont get sucked in or get in a rut, think outside the square, you will be amazed at what you can find! You can have a look and listen to the Weissenborn made of Australian Maple on my site buildaweissenborn.com see what you think!

Terry Buddell is a freelance journalist and a Marine surveyor, boat designer and shipwright, He lives on board his yacht "The Nicky J Miller' that he built himself on The Gold Coast Australia and has sailed his yacht up the East Coast to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. He is currently resident in Gladstone Queensland where he is building another boat for his collection of plans for sale on the internet.In his spare time(what spare time??) Terry, a keen guitarist has builtd a Weissenborn lap steel guitar!

Pictures for most of the articles can be viewed on the website below. ! Terry can be contacted on arcus1@bigpond.com or http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

Installing Retrofit and Replacement Vinyl Windows

In previous articles i explained to you how to determine whether your windows are candidates for vinyl replacement style frames or retrofit style frames. This week I'm going to explain the installation techniques for both frame styles. Let's start with the retrofit frame.

Retrofit window installation is really the easiest of all. The retrofit window already comes with an exterior trim attached. That's the flush fin that goes against the outside surface, usually stucco. Prepare the window by drilling 3/8" holes in the areas of the frame where you w14C8ant to screw it in place. Normally, there will be 3 holes on each side and 3 more across the top. Don't predrill any holes in the bottom track. After removing the old panels, you want to run a heavy bead of caulk on the face of the old aluminum frame that you left in place. Then you and a helper set the bottom of the vinyl window onto the old aluminum bottom track and raise it into position. The flush fin or retrofit lip will act as a "stop" to hold the window in place. Have your helper hold the window while you go inside.

Once inside, you want to center the window in the opening. Slide the vent panel open and closed to make sure the window is plumb and level. To adjust for out of square conditions, shim the bottom right or left corner by placing a shimming material between the sill and bottom of the window frame. Once square, drive a 3" deck screw through the 3/8" holes and into the wood studs.Just seat the screw, don't overtighten. After you get the screws into the sides and top, remove the sliding panel. The bottom track should lift out. Look for drainage holes in the track and insert a thin screwdriver and lift up. Drive one screw in the bottom center, caulk around the screw head, then put the track back in place and re-install the sliding panel. Now, you want to go back outside and caulk the gap where the retrofit fin meets the exterior surface of the house. You want to have a double barrier of protection against water infiltration. Remember, you already applied a generous bead of caulk before inserting the new frame into the opening. The rest of the job is done on the inside.

First, you want to plug the 3/8" screw holes to hide the heads of the screws. We sell the hole plugs on the website. Just click on the "shop" tab to see a picture. The plugs will pop into place in the hole. The next step is to fill the gap around the new frame with R-13 Insulation. Do not use the foam insulation that comes in a can. Many manufacturers will not honor the warranty if the foam is used. Even the non expanding foams can cause the frame to distort, causing problems. Pack the insulation in tight. You might want to wear a dust mask during this procedure. Many people, myself included, are very sensitive to insulation. After the insulation is in place, you want to install trim around the inside to finish the job. You can use wood trim from the hardware store, or some other product. But in my experience, the best product is a vinyl flat trim that matches the window frame. The flat trim can also be purchased on the website under the "shop" tab, or you could try to find it from a local window contractor. Ours comes in 3 different widths, although the 1 3/4" wide piece is by far the most common. The trim has a double sided adhesive tape on the back. You cut the top and bottom first, stick them on the vinyl frame, making sure the trim goes to the drywall. This covers all the insulation and the old metal frame. Do the side pieces next. The final step is to caulk where the trim meets the walls.

Much of the installation process for a replacement frame is the same as the retrofit frame. But, there are a few differences. When you put the new window into the opening using a replacement frame, you don't have the flush fin holding the frame in place. You and your helper have to hold the frame in place while you put a screw in the top center to support the frame. Then, you can do your adjusting for a square condition. All of the procedures on the inside will be exactly the same, from hole plugs, to insulation, to trim and caulk. The outside is different. You have to apply the trim that was part of the retrofit frame. Again, I prefer the flat trim. Once again, you apply a bead of caulk to the old frame,then measure and cut the top and bottom trim pieces. Apply the adhesive part of the trim to the vinyl frame, and let the other part contact the bead of caulk. Trim all four sides, then caulk again where the trim meets the exterior material.

As you can see, it really doesn't matter if the exterior of your home is brick, stone, siding, or stucco. You can install vinyl windows without having to damage the surrounding structure. We have step by step instructional videos for sale on the website at how-to-install-windows.com. Next week we are going to start discussing sliding glass door replacement.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Bath Accessories

Bathroom accessories have undergone a revolution with regards to design and the level of comfort that they provide. There ar1C84e hundreds of bathroom accessory manufacturing companies which produce quality products for today's modern bathrooms. These products are available in the market and online for a large number of customers. There is such a large variety of accessories that you have a hard time in deciding in what to have and what not to have. Lets see some of the must have accessories which your bathroom must have and which if installed will take the comfort in your bathroom to the highest level.

1. Smart toilet are one must have accessory for any modern bathroom. This is an interesting product. The lid automatically opens and closes as you approach and leave. The flushing is also carried out automatically. It also gives added features such as heated seat and front and rear washing.

2. Bidets are installed in traditional and modern bathrooms and they are an important bath accessory. They are available in different designs. You can match it with your bathroom color and texture.

3. Urinals are an important accessory and are available in different exquisite designs. The designs make it easy and faster to use and add to the beauty of the bathroom.

4. Electronic faucets are used in modern bathrooms which are a symbol of ease and comfort. All you have to do is wave your hand and it will turn on.

5. Spa baths installed in the bathrooms provide heated water and massage facilities. It has a number of air jets and is a luxurious addition to the bathroom.

6. Tanning showers are also a luxurious addition to the bathroom inventory. It has a bronzing system which provides the tan and then it is washed by warm water.

7. Modern bathrooms have an ultra modern accessory known as spa showers. They are an important addition and help a person revitalize in the bath after the days routine.

8. Dry sauna is also an important gadget for the modern bathrooms. It helps in relieving different aches and makes a person feel comfortable and relaxed. It is available in the market in different styles and colors.

9. Towel warming drawers add to the luxury of your bathrooms by heating the towels you use. It gives a refreshing feeling to the person using the towel and the warmer is very easy to use.

10. Bath multimedia keeps you involved and entertained during the period you are in the bathroom. You can listen to MP3 songs, enjoy videos and also receive message either SMS or emails.

Modern bathrooms are place where you have a lot to install and all that you install add to the comfort you will enjoy in the future. The above mentioned are only a few things which are must in a bathroom. There are thousands of other things which you can place in your bathroom to make it a place of tranquil and peace. The more you add the more comfortable would be your bathroom.

Bathrooms Accessories are little treats that can make your life nicer, more about Bathrooms at http://bathroomscentral.com

How To Make Your Kitchen Cozy

When you shape the kitchen interior, the greatest problems are connected with drawbacks of planning and lack of space. Appropriately chosen kitchen furniture can resolve this situation, even more so that variety of models gives such an opportunity. The main thing is to imagine how your own kitchen acts out, i.e. even on the stage of planning you are to foresee conformity of all objects and thei1C84r sizes. Believe us, this will greatly facilitate the whole process, up to setting the last shelf in the dresser.

So, you have already made up the list of all kitchen equipment with indication of its size. Now pay attention to technical details, such as dimensions and location of the ventilation, pipes, wiring, sockets, flexible (gas, water-supply) hoses etc. Enter all necessary stuffing in your list and you can set off for the shop to make your choice. If you are going to buy all elements of kitchen interior separately, dont forget that the standard depth of household appliances is 600 mm, so check in advance the parameters of the things you need.

The dominant is high storage cabinets for storing foodstuffs and high cabinets for storing inventory (brushes, brooms etc). It is necessary to remember that they should not break off the work surface and they should not be located on the outskirts of your kitchen field. If you prefer an inbuilt grill or oven, it is the high storage cabinet that will accommodate them without breaking the uniformity. Besides you can pick up the height of their location, so that it is convenient for you.

Now lets touch upon on-floor cabinets. They are the basis of your workspace, their height directly affects the extent of your hands fatigue after cooking food, a great amount of drawers on rollers can help simplify reaching out for any object of kitchen interior that you need at the moment. We advise that you plan the space of on-floor cabinets in such a way, that the most frequently used objects could be easily accessed (pullout rotating shelves), while the rarely used dishware can be placed on the ordinary shelves. A detail: trays and baking sheets can be conveniently settled in the plinth case under the on-floor table, which in fact, can have any width, depending on your requirements. If the height of the on-floor cabinet (preparation table) is not convenient for you, the plinth will add several centimeters, necessary for your accommodation and will relieve your hands and back of overstrain. Important: it is extremely comfortable to work while sitting, so if you decided to bring in something new to the interior and give yourself a treat, plan a pullout shelf under one of cabinets of work surface or get a high (bar) stool.

Overhead cabinets are to be located not less than 450 mm from the work surface, it is necessary, in order to accommodate freely all used electrical appliances (a food processor, a coffee-machine, a toaster etc). The height of standard cabinets is 600 mm, perforce you can buy 900-mm cabinets. They will exactly reach the ceiling in typical flats. Even if after all this, there are some things left and there is some vacant space on top, we finish the composition by entresol shelves up to the ceiling (open or closed ones) or a cornice with inbuilt lamps. Corner wall-mounted cabinets have either open shelves, or a folding door, which makes all the contents visible; the rotating shelf is remarkable for its capacity and convenience. The distance between the work surface and overhead cabinets is called the apron. With regard to the work surface the main thing for the apron is to be in harmony with it as to colour and texture. For instance, a glossy table top and glazed tiles, mat colour of the work surface and mat apron (covered with mat washable wallpapers or imitation of tiles).

Such attention to the image of the apron is connected with the fact that it should protect the wall from dirtying, for example, from grease that can be easily washed off. The work surface is often overloaded with objects and their abundance induces the feeling of discomfort. We will free it with the help of the apron. Lets fix the microwave oven on brackets, arrange the parade of species on the miniature shelves and place the small metal items and knives on the magnetic panel. One more nuance: the decorative nook (plinth), made of water-resistant materials, will protect the back surfaces of on-floor cabinets from ingress of moisture.

When you place standard furniture, there may be narrow gaps between separate elements or between the furniture and the wall. Use them put a narrow shelf or a table in this gap. For example, a movable table will increase the active surface and will be used as a serving table. A narrow socle will prove useful for storing preparation plates, towels, bottles. Select the same materials for these inbuilt constructions as those used for main furniture. Kitchen furniture made from natural hard wood (oak, cherry, beech, nut-tree) and work surface from granite and marble look impressive and respectable.

Ultramodern directions of finishing are represented by metal surfaces (stainless steel, aluminum) and heat-resistant glass. Inexpensive surfaces can be made of laminated plastic, ceramic tiles, plastic. All these materials are rather practical and differ in the ways of installation and operation: laminated plastics is deformed by high temperatures, the tiles can crack as a result of unsuccessful landing of a heavy pan, plastic is vulnerable to scratches, but in contrast to laminated plastic it withstands high temperature almost without deformation. No kitchen can do without silent assistants, such as a gas cooker, refrigerator, sink. Selection of equipment depends only on you. When the kitchen is small, the equipment and sink are to be compact.

There are sinks of various shapes and dimensions; in our opinion, it is better to select a round sink made from stainless steel. It is smaller than the square one, yet everyone, who has ever used a round sink, will agree that it is more convenient for washing and cleaning, and besides it has a more aesthetic look. It is very convenient, if the sink has additional ribbed trays for drying dishware, the water then does not spill on the surface of the table top and gradually trickles down to the sink. There are models, where the sink is combined with a drying apparatus, but if you have a dishwasher, you can do without a drying apparatus. Instead, choose a sink with two additional compartments for wetting cutlery and rinsing washed dishware. The drawback of the combined multisection sink is that it takes up too much space. If you have some room, buy a wider 800-mm table top instead of a standard 600-mm one. Then the part of the table top that adjoins the wall can be lifted for 15-20 mm and you will have a convenient shelf. Besides under the table top you can have a special cavity 20 cm deep that will allow you to conceal drainage equipment. As a result, we get additional space under the sink, where you can put a dishwasher and arrange shelves for cleaners on the remaining space.

The main principle of placing the sink is convenience. It should not be located far from the gas cooker and be connected with it via a common work surface. If the kitchen is small and you planned it as a single line (please refer to the previous article), place the sink in the center, and refrigerator and the gas cooker on each side. A sink in the corner looks good in a big kitchen. The main advantage is economy of space. It is possible to plan a kitchen island; in this case the sink perfectly fits into the center of the c5B4omposition. One more must of the kitchen interior is the gas cooker. Modern cookers with burners and an oven have the same height as the furniture, that is why there are no problems with breaking off the sole horizontal work surface. Nevertheless, if the cooker does not match this parameter, it is preferable to choose models with a flap that closes the burners, when food has been cooked.

Inbuilt kitchen equipment is more expensive, yet more convenient. You can use any combination of equipment at your discretion. This principle is called domino. The basic modules are gas and electric burners, an oven, a cooking panel. Delicatessen-lovers will install a grill, a deep-fryer, a steamer, a brazier. You are absolutely free in the flight of your fancy and can endlessly enrich your arsenal of kitchen innovations. Work with inbuilt models is practical, because you use minimum dishware and have maximum pleasure from cooking. Also important is the fact that cooker hoods are inbuilt as well, they absorb smoke and soot in the horizontal, but not vertical direction. A substantial drawback that prevents many people from buying inbuilt equipment is its high price.

A small fridge, as well as the washing machine, can be put under the work surface. If you need a big fridge, dont forget about the law of non-breaking off the work surface, when you place it. So, you have taken care about all kitchen components, and in conclusio5AEn add to the interior some personal charm, because its face should reflect the traits of your personality.

Your imagination will prompt what elements of dcor are relevant in your interior, these can be flowers, paintings, porcelain collections or just cute trifles. The designers of the best repair and construction companies will help you orientate in the endless variety of kitchen furniture and household appliances. With their help your kitchen will be not only convenient and cozy, but will also become a unique reflection of your personality.

Arthur Prudent is a developer of London builders: kitchen, bathroom renovation - web site offering all aspects of builders services. Find Home Improvement articles at "Useful Tips"

Installing Retrofit and Replacement Vinyl Windows

In previous articles i explained to you how to determine whether your windows are candidates for vinyl replacement style frames or retrofit style frames. This week I'm going to explain the installation techniques for both frame styles. Let's start with the retrofit frame.

Retrofit window installation is really the easiest of all. The retrofit window already comes with an exterior trim attached. That's the flush fin that goes against the outside surface, usually stucco. Prepare the window by drilling 3/8" holes in the areas of the frame where you w14C8ant to screw it in place. Normally, there will be 3 holes on each side and 3 more across the top. Don't predrill any holes in the bottom track. After removing the old panels, you want to run a heavy bead of caulk on the face of the old aluminum frame that you left in place. Then you and a helper set the bottom of the vinyl window onto the old aluminum bottom track and raise it into position. The flush fin or retrofit lip will act as a "stop" to hold the window in place. Have your helper hold the window while you go inside.

Once inside, you want to center the window in the opening. Slide the vent panel open and closed to make sure the window is plumb and level. To adjust for out of square conditions, shim the bottom right or left corner by placing a shimming material between the sill and bottom of the window frame. Once square, drive a 3" deck screw through the 3/8" holes and into the wood studs.Just seat the screw, don't overtighten. After you get the screws into the sides and top, remove the sliding panel. The bottom track should lift out. Look for drainage holes in the track and insert a thin screwdriver and lift up. Drive one screw in the bottom center, caulk around the screw head, then put the track back in place and re-install the sliding panel. Now, you want to go back outside and caulk the gap where the retrofit fin meets the exterior surface of the house. You want to have a double barrier of protection against water infiltration. Remember, you already applied a generous bead of caulk before inserting the new frame into the opening. The rest of the job is done on the inside.

First, you want to plug the 3/8" screw holes to hide the heads of the screws. We sell the hole plugs on the website. Just click on the "shop" tab to see a picture. The plugs will pop into place in the hole. The next step is to fill the gap around the new frame with R-13 Insulation. Do not use the foam insulation that comes in a can. Many manufacturers will not honor the warranty if the foam is used. Even the non expanding foams can cause the frame to distort, causing problems. Pack the insulation in tight. You might want to wear a dust mask during this procedure. Many people, myself included, are very sensitive to insulation. After the insulation is in place, you want to install trim around the inside to finish the job. You can use wood trim from the hardware store, or some other product. But in my experience, the best product is a vinyl flat trim that matches the window frame. The flat trim can also be purchased on the website under the "shop" tab, or you could try to find it from a local window contractor. Ours comes in 3 different widths, although the 1 3/4" wide piece is by far the most common. The trim has a double sided adhesive tape on the back. You cut the top and bottom first, stick them on the vinyl frame, making sure the trim goes to the drywall. This covers all the insulation and the old metal frame. Do the side pieces next. The final step is to caulk where the trim meets the walls.

Much of the installation process for a replacement frame is the same as the retrofit frame. But, there are a few differences. When you put the new window into the opening using a replacement frame, you don't have the flush fin holding the frame in place. You and your helper have to hold the frame in place while you put a screw in the top center to support the frame. Then, you can do your adjusting for a square condition. All of the procedures on the inside will be exactly the same, from hole plugs, to insulation, to trim and caulk. The outside is different. You have to apply the trim that was part of the retrofit frame. Again, I prefer the flat trim. Once again, you apply a bead of caulk to the old frame,then measure and cut the top and bottom trim pieces. Apply the adhesive part of the trim to the vinyl frame, and let the other part contact the bead of caulk. Trim all four sides, then caulk again where the trim meets the exterior material.

As you can see, it really doesn't matter if the exterior of your home is brick, stone, siding, or stucco. You can install vinyl windows without having to damage the surrounding structure. We have step by step instructional videos for sale on the website at how-to-install-windows.com. Next week we are going to start discussing sliding glass door replacement.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Bathroom Mold Problems

How To Make Your Kitchen Cozy

When you shape the kitchen interior, the greatest problems are connected with drawbacks of planning and lack of space. Appropriately chosen kitchen furniture can resolve this situation, even more so that variety of models gives such an opportunity. The main thing is to imagine how your own kitchen acts out, i.e. even on the stage of planning you are to foresee conformity of all objects and thei1C84r sizes. Believe us, this will greatly facilitate the whole process, up to setting the last shelf in the dresser.

So, you have already made up the list of all kitchen equipment with indication of its size. Now pay attention to technical details, such as dimensions and location of the ventilation, pipes, wiring, sockets, flexible (gas, water-supply) hoses etc. Enter all necessary stuffing in your list and you can set off for the shop to make your choice. If you are going to buy all elements of kitchen interior separately, dont forget that the standard depth of household appliances is 600 mm, so check in advance the parameters of the things you need.

The dominant is high storage cabinets for storing foodstuffs and high cabinets for storing inventory (brushes, brooms etc). It is necessary to remember that they should not break off the work surface and they should not be located on the outskirts of your kitchen field. If you prefer an inbuilt grill or oven, it is the high storage cabinet that will accommodate them without breaking the uniformity. Besides you can pick up the height of their location, so that it is convenient for you.

Now lets touch upon on-floor cabinets. They are the basis of your workspace, their height directly affects the extent of your hands fatigue after cooking food, a great amount of drawers on rollers can help simplify reaching out for any object of kitchen interior that you need at the moment. We advise that you plan the space of on-floor cabinets in such a way, that the most frequently used objects could be easily accessed (pullout rotating shelves), while the rarely used dishware can be placed on the ordinary shelves. A detail: trays and baking sheets can be conveniently settled in the plinth case under the on-floor table, which in fact, can have any width, depending on your requirements. If the height of the on-floor cabinet (preparation table) is not convenient for you, the plinth will add several centimeters, necessary for your accommodation and will relieve your hands and back of overstrain. Important: it is extremely comfortable to work while sitting, so if you decided to bring in something new to the interior and give yourself a treat, plan a pullout shelf under one of cabinets of work surface or get a high (bar) stool.

Overhead cabinets are to be located not less than 450 mm from the work surface, it is necessary, in order to accommodate freely all used electrical appliances (a food processor, a coffee-machine, a toaster etc). The height of standard cabinets is 600 mm, perforce you can buy 900-mm cabinets. They will exactly reach the ceiling in typical flats. Even if after all this, there are some things left and there is some vacant space on top, we finish the composition by entresol shelves up to the ceiling (open or closed ones) or a cornice with inbuilt lamps. Corner wall-mounted cabinets have either open shelves, or a folding door, which makes all the contents visible; the rotating shelf is remarkable for its capacity and convenience. The distance between the work surface and overhead cabinets is called the apron. With regard to the work surface the main thing for the apron is to be in harmony with it as to colour and texture. For instance, a glossy table top and glazed tiles, mat colour of the work surface and mat apron (covered with mat washable wallpapers or imitation of tiles).

Such attention to the image of the apron is connected with the fact that it should protect the wall from dirtying, for example, from grease that can be easily washed off. The work surface is often overloaded with objects and their abundance induces the feeling of discomfort. We will free it with the help of the apron. Lets fix the microwave oven on brackets, arrange the parade of species on the miniature shelves and place the small metal items and knives on the magnetic panel. One more nuance: the decorative nook (plinth), made of water-resistant materials, will protect the back surfaces of on-floor cabinets from ingress of moisture.

When you place standard furniture, there may be narrow gaps between separate elements or between the furniture and the wall. Use them put a narrow shelf or a table in this gap. For example, a movable table will increase the active surface and will be used as a serving table. A narrow socle will prove useful for storing preparation plates, towels, bottles. Select the same materials for these inbuilt constructions as those used for main furniture. Kitchen furniture made from natural hard wood (oak, cherry, beech, nut-tree) and work surface from granite and marble look impressive and respectable.

Ultramodern directions of finishing are represented by metal surfaces (stainless steel, aluminum) and heat-resistant glass. Inexpensive surfaces can be made of laminated plastic, ceramic tiles, plastic. All these materials are rather practical and differ in the ways of installation and operation: laminated plastics is deformed by high temperatures, the tiles can crack as a result of unsuccessful landing of a heavy pan, plastic is vulnerable to scratches, but in contrast to laminated plastic it withstands high temperature almost without deformation. No kitchen can do without silent assistants, such as a gas cooker, refrigerator, sink. Selection of equipment depends only on you. When the kitchen is small, the equipment and sink are to be compact.

There are sinks of various shapes and dimensions; in our opinion, it is better to select a round sink made from stainless steel. It is smaller than the square one, yet everyone, who has ever used a round sink, will agree that it is more convenient for washing and cleaning, and besides it has a more aesthetic look. It is very convenient, if the sink has additional ribbed trays for drying dishware, the water then does not spill on the surface of the table top and gradually trickles down to the sink. There are models, where the sink is combined with a drying apparatus, but if you have a dishwasher, you can do without a drying apparatus. Instead, choose a sink with two additional compartments for wetting cutlery and rinsing washed dishware. The drawback of the combined multisection sink is that it takes up too much space. If you have some room, buy a wider 800-mm table top instead of a standard 600-mm one. Then the part of the table top that adjoins the wall can be lifted for 15-20 mm and you will have a convenient shelf. Besides under the table top you can have a special cavity 20 cm deep that will allow you to conceal drainage equipment. As a result, we get additional space under the sink, where you can put a dishwasher and arrange shelves for cleaners on the remaining space.

The main principle of placing the sink is convenience. It should not be located far from the gas cooker and be connected with it via a common work surface. If the kitchen is small and you planned it as a single line (please refer to the previous article), place the sink in the center, and refrigerator and the gas cooker on each side. A sink in the corner looks good in a big kitchen. The main advantage is economy of space. It is possible to plan a kitchen island; in this case the sink perfectly fits into the center of the c5B4omposition. One more must of the kitchen interior is the gas cooker. Modern cookers with burners and an oven have the same height as the furniture, that is why there are no problems with breaking off the sole horizontal work surface. Nevertheless, if the cooker does not match this parameter, it is preferable to choose models with a flap that closes the burners, when food has been cooked.

Inbuilt kitchen equipment is more expensive, yet more convenient. You can use any combination of equipment at your discretion. This principle is called domino. The basic modules are gas and electric burners, an oven, a cooking panel. Delicatessen-lovers will install a grill, a deep-fryer, a steamer, a brazier. You are absolutely free in the flight of your fancy and can endlessly enrich your arsenal of kitchen innovations. Work with inbuilt models is practical, because you use minimum dishware and have maximum pleasure from cooking. Also important is the fact that cooker hoods are inbuilt as well, they absorb smoke and soot in the horizontal, but not vertical direction. A substantial drawback that prevents many people from buying inbuilt equipment is its high price.

A small fridge, as well as the washing machine, can be put under the work surface. If you need a big fridge, dont forget about the law of non-breaking off the work surface, when you place it. So, you have taken care about all kitchen components, and in conclusio5AEn add to the interior some personal charm, because its face should reflect the traits of your personality.

Your imagination will prompt what elements of dcor are relevant in your interior, these can be flowers, paintings, porcelain collections or just cute trifles. The designers of the best repair and construction companies will help you orientate in the endless variety of kitchen furniture and household appliances. With their help your kitchen will be not only convenient and cozy, but will also become a unique reflection of your personality.

Arthur Prudent is a developer of London builders: kitchen, bathroom renovation - web site offering all aspects of builders services. Find Home Improvement articles at "Useful Tips"

Fallbrook Church Bell Tower

Installing Retrofit and Replacement Vinyl Windows

In previous articles i explained to you how to determine whether your windows are candidates for vinyl replacement style frames or retrofit style frames. This week I'm going to explain the installation techniques for both frame styles. Let's start with the retrofit frame.

Retrofit window installation is really the easiest of all. The retrofit window already comes with an exterior trim attached. That's the flush fin that goes against the outside surface, usually stucco. Prepare the window by drilling 3/8" holes in the areas of the frame where you w14C8ant to screw it in place. Normally, there will be 3 holes on each side and 3 more across the top. Don't predrill any holes in the bottom track. After removing the old panels, you want to run a heavy bead of caulk on the face of the old aluminum frame that you left in place. Then you and a helper set the bottom of the vinyl window onto the old aluminum bottom track and raise it into position. The flush fin or retrofit lip will act as a "stop" to hold the window in place. Have your helper hold the window while you go inside.

Once inside, you want to center the window in the opening. Slide the vent panel open and closed to make sure the window is plumb and level. To adjust for out of square conditions, shim the bottom right or left corner by placing a shimming material between the sill and bottom of the window frame. Once square, drive a 3" deck screw through the 3/8" holes and into the wood studs.Just seat the screw, don't overtighten. After you get the screws into the sides and top, remove the sliding panel. The bottom track should lift out. Look for drainage holes in the track and insert a thin screwdriver and lift up. Drive one screw in the bottom center, caulk around the screw head, then put the track back in place and re-install the sliding panel. Now, you want to go back outside and caulk the gap where the retrofit fin meets the exterior surface of the house. You want to have a double barrier of protection against water infiltration. Remember, you already applied a generous bead of caulk before inserting the new frame into the opening. The rest of the job is done on the inside.

First, you want to plug the 3/8" screw holes to hide the heads of the screws. We sell the hole plugs on the website. Just click on the "shop" tab to see a picture. The plugs will pop into place in the hole. The next step is to fill the gap around the new frame with R-13 Insulation. Do not use the foam insulation that comes in a can. Many manufacturers will not honor the warranty if the foam is used. Even the non expanding foams can cause the frame to distort, causing problems. Pack the insulation in tight. You might want to wear a dust mask during this procedure. Many people, myself included, are very sensitive to insulation. After the insulation is in place, you want to install trim around the inside to finish the job. You can use wood trim from the hardware store, or some other product. But in my experience, the best product is a vinyl flat trim that matches the window frame. The flat trim can also be purchased on the website under the "shop" tab, or you could try to find it from a local window contractor. Ours comes in 3 different widths, although the 1 3/4" wide piece is by far the most common. The trim has a double sided adhesive tape on the back. You cut the top and bottom first, stick them on the vinyl frame, making sure the trim goes to the drywall. This covers all the insulation and the old metal frame. Do the side pieces next. The final step is to caulk where the trim meets the walls.

Much of the installation process for a replacement frame is the same as the retrofit frame. But, there are a few differences. When you put the new window into the opening using a replacement frame, you don't have the flush fin holding the frame in place. You and your helper have to hold the frame in place while you put a screw in the top center to support the frame. Then, you can do your adjusting for a square condition. All of the procedures on the inside will be exactly the same, from hole plugs, to insulation, to trim and caulk. The outside is different. You have to apply the trim that was part of the retrofit frame. Again, I prefer the flat trim. Once again, you apply a bead of caulk to the old frame,then measure and cut the top and bottom trim pieces. Apply the adhesive part of the trim to the vinyl frame, and let the other part contact the bead of caulk. Trim all four sides, then caulk again where the trim meets the exterior material.

As you can see, it really doesn't matter if the exterior of your home is brick, stone, siding, or stucco. You can install vinyl windows without having to damage the surrounding structure. We have step by step instructional videos for sale on the website at how-to-install-windows.com. Next week we are going to start discussing sliding glass door replacement.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Bathroom Mold Problems

Information Prior To Purchasing A Tub

There are certain people who just expect to get a bathtub when they go inside a home improvement store but they do not take into account issues such as factors influencing the purchase and the setting up procedure. However, there are also some people who prefer to know more information before buying the tub and this is a very good idea. You are one of these people and that's the reason why you are reading this article. By doing this you will have more information and it would make it easier for you to get a good tub.

There are five factors, which you have to consider when getting a new bathtub and they are:

- Measurement of the bathroom: You must find out about your bathroom's measurement if you want to buy a good bathtub that will suit your bathroom. Knowing the measurement of the bathroom will assist you in selecting the right tub size for your bathroom.

- Find out the location where you intend to place the tub: After having measured the dimension of the bathroom, you should make a decision regarding that area of the bathroom where you intend to keep your bathtub. There are few individuals who do not have any problem even if the tub occupies most of the bathroom area. On the other hand there are few individuals who would fret over this matter. Your decision will determine the dimension of the bathtub.

- Select from the various bathtub materials: Plastic, concrete, stone, marble and porcelain are some materials that most bathtubs are made from. It's up to you to make a decision regarding which material would be best for your bathroom. Plastic is not as long lasting as porcelain but then again porcelain is more costly. Some materials look elegant but they are expensive too. These materials are concrete, stone and marble and are most appropriate for exterior whirlpool tubs.

- The shade you prefer: Now that you have decided on the material and size of the tub, you have to make a decision regarding its shade. The producers offer bathtubs of a variety of shades of pale yellow, lavender, lime green and ivory but majority of the people prefer white color. The Internet is the best place to shop for your bathtub.

- Make a contrast between different bathtubs: Now that you have already decided on the shade, I would suggest that you call up the stores that sells the type of bathtub that you have in mind. If you don't want to make any calls then simply look for the bathtub in the Internet. Its really much less complicated than finding a good air compressor system for wood working.

These are the five factors, which you should think of while purchasing a bathtub. I would also suggest you to save this article so that you can take a look at it at the time of purchase. For the purpose of buying a sink or toilet, you can also refer to this article.

Concentrating on latest news in air pressure systems, the author is publishing normally for http://www.insidewoodworking.com You can see his observati2C8ons on air compressor systems and different sources for air compressor systems knowledge.

Exterior Stairs With 2 X 12

Things To Think About When Choosing A Jacuzzi Bathtub

Jacuzzi tubs have always been popular, and this popularity is growing as more and more people become aware of the wonders of a Jacuzzi tub and the effect of hydrotherapy to soothe tired muscles, relive stress, increase metabolism and improve overall health. However there are a few things to think about before choosing a Jacuzzi bathtub, including the design of the tub and how it fits with your overall decor, the power requirements, and the type of materials you can choose for the tub.

The first things that should be considered before choosing a Jacuzzi bathtub is the design of the tub itself and ensuring that it goes well with the general design of the bathroom. The tub will be a prominent part of the bathroom, and so it's essential that the color should the general decor. There also needs to be some consideration of shape and style. If you have a bathroom that is done is a modern style, then something with sleek, clean lines would be suitable. If the bathroom is in a more vintage style, then something a little more ornate should be considered.

When it comes to the power requirements of a Jacuzzi it is very important to ensure there is adequate power available to enable the massage jets to function effectively. A good rule of thumb is that there should be a separate pump for every twenty jets, and obviously this can put a strain on the power supply if it isn't adequate. A thing to remember is that it is probably a very good idea to hire a licensed contractor to install the tub to ensure that the electricity supply is up to standard and installed safely.

Jacuzzi bathtubs, like any other type of tub, are available in different types of materials. Many of these materials can add a unique look to the bathroom, but in terms of functionality it might be an advisable to go for the standard acrylic tub. Acrylic is not only naturally shiny, but also chemically inert and nonporous. An acrylic bathtub will neither fade nor stain. For more information on the different types of bathtub materials, see the resources at bathtubworld.com.

Another option is the cast iron bathtub with porcelain. But this common bathtub material is quite heavy and also expensive. It can also be tough to clean. Other types of bathtub material that it may be wise to avoid is the synthetic cultured marble which can crack due to sudden changes in temperature. Similarly, gel coated fiberglass can stain easily and due to its dull luster is not particularly good looking.

A final thing to consider when choosing your Jacuzzi bathtub is what kind of optional extras you want to install. Jacuzzis nowadays come with a variety of additional features that make bathing more than a water-1119based experience. Some Jacuzzi bathtubs have LED matrix lighting that offers lighting effects, which can be programmed to provide chromo therapy.

Most modern Jacuzzis also come with an ozonator system, a natural disinfecting agent which decreases the usage of other chemicals to a good extent. Other optional features in some varieties of Jacuzzi tubs include a mood light, heater, and even a water-level sensor.

Carl Formby owns and operates http://www.bathtubworld.com, an online resource for helping you choose from one of the many Bathtubs available on the market today, especially Jacuzzi Bathtubs

Big Mold Problems

39913

64755

Replacing Aluminum Frame Single Pane Windows

In our past articles I talked about all the steps required to properly replace your old wood sash windows with energy efficient vinyl windows. I told you how to measure for the new windows. Then we discussed the removal of the wood sashes and parting bead. Finally, I told you how to install, seal, and trim the vinyl replacement windows. But, what if those old windows in your home are made of aluminum instead of wood? Is the process the same? No, it's not the same at all. So, the next few articles are going to explain the differences between replacing wood windows versus aluminum windows.

When discussing the proper frame style for replacing the wood sash windows, I explained the difference between new construction frames versus replacement frames. When replacing aluminum windows, there is another option we have to consider regarding frame style. It's called a "retrofit" frame. Let's go over each frame type. First, we have the new construction frame with the nailing fin. If you choose to go this route, you have to remove the exterior around each window opening, pull out the nails holding the aluminum window to the studs, nail in the new vinyl window, apply flashing, caulk, and re-install the exterior around each window.(I get tired just talking about it!)In addition to being a whole lot of labor, you can run into major problems trying to install the exterior product around each window opening. If your home has stucco, you have to try and match the rest of the stucco. It can be done, but not by you. Even most professional stucco guys can't get a perfect match. What if you have wood siding? Well, you can cut away 2" of the siding around each window to get to the nail fin, then you can apply 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 trim around each window. Certainly not as much work as the stucco home, but probably more work than the average homeowner cares to tackle. What if each window is surrounded by brick? Let's not even go there! You would have to remove the bricks, then re-install them all when finished.

Trust me, you don't want to replace your old aluminum windows with new construction vinyl windows. You want to use either the replacement frame like the one used to replace the wood sash windows, or something called a retrofit frame, that is popular in the west where stucco is a common exterior. Since the procedure for measuring is the same regardless of the frame style chosen, this article will discuss the proper measuring procedure, and future articles will explain the difference in the installation process for replacement versus retrofit.

If you look at the portion of the aluminum frame that goes around the window opening into your surrounding walls, you will see three separate "legs" that form two pockets. The outside leg and the center leg form the first pocket. Your screen and stationary panel will be in this pocket. The center leg and inside leg form the second pocket, and your sliding panel is in that pocket. Find the "leg" that is the widest on all four sides. When measuring the width, run your tape measure from the widest leg on the left to the widest leg on the right. This should be the narrowest measurement. Then, subtract 3/8" from that measurement. This is the width of the replacement window. Measure the height the same way. When measuring the height, measure as close to the center of the window as possible. This is especially important on windows wider than six feet, because the top wood header has a tendency to sag over time, making the center of the opening the narrowest. You don't need to deduct 3/8" from the height like you did on the width. 1/4" is fine. These are the dimensions you use when ordering your vinyl window. If you have any picture windows(windows without a vent panel), there will only be two legs and one pocket. You still measure the same way.

Next week I will discuss whether your home is a candidate for retrofit frames or replacement frames...

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Front Yard Stucco Fence

Aging In Place Or How To Never Leave Home

One of the newer trends among the graying population is known as Aging-In-Place or A.I.P. Many people no longer want to retire to a warm climate, they would rather remain, at least part of the year, where their children and extended family are, more specifically, they often want to remain in their own home. This is the first in a series of articles about ways to prepare a home for ease of lifestyle over an extended time span.

In family situations where this may be the case, it makes sense, when undertaking any renovation, to look for ways to design which will allow an aging occupant to adapt the home more easily as circumstances change.

The most common places where problems occur are bathrooms, kitchens and paths of travel, including stairs, doorways, and other areas where changes in elevation occur, such as garage to house, or front entries.

This article will look at bathrooms. Obstacles here can include the type of handles on fixtures, ease of getting up and down from a toilet, the general slipperiness that water can cause and steps or curbs into tubs or showers. Preparing a bathroom to accommodate a wheelchair or walker is also worth thinking about when renovating.

Some solutions are extremely easy. All faucet companies have extensive lines of ADA approved faucets. Lever handles provide the ability to turn on and off easily, even with the wrist, if hand strength is diminished. Faucets come in top of the line styles and finishes, and can be used in the bathroom at any time. Lever handles are also a good idea on doors.

One of most useful (and easy) ideas is the installation of reinforcement in walls for the future placement of grab bars. Grab bars are typically located adjacent to and behind toilets and around showers or tubs, and the reinforcement usually consists of a piece of plywood or metal firmly attached to the studs along a length of wall, usually between 32" and 38" off the floor for a horizontal bar, hidden behind the tile.

If you're changing the door, you might want to consider the opening width. A "usable" door that will accommodate a wheelchair needs a 32" clear opening. 5B4This can usually be achieved with a 2'-10" door installed in a standard manner.

Space is needed not only to open and get through doorways, but also to turn around, and to manipulate from the wheelchair onto the toilet, into a tub or shower, or under a sink. Accessibility Guidelines have been set over the years through Federal acts, and these guidelines provide excellent standards when looking at design solutions. A wheelchair basically occupies 30" x 48" of space, so it is considered that a circle with a diameter of 5ft (60") is the right amount of clear space to allow for a wheelchair to turn around, whether in the U of a U-shaped kitchen or in a bathroom, and an area of 30" x 48" should be provided in front of any fixture where a wheelchair would have to go. The orientation would depend on how the person would be approaching the fixture.

In this situation, sinks can either be installed in a countertop, without a base, or with retractable cabinet doors, to allow a user to slide in under the sink. A minimum width of 2'-6" is needed, with 3' being a more optimal width. Cabinet manufacturers have whole lines of cabinetry tailored to meet the increasing need for accessibility, both in the kitchen and the bath.

A toilet should be placed where there is a minimum of 33" between a wall and the nearest fixture, with the toilet itself 1'-6" from the wall to allow the most efficient use of a grab bar along the side for assistan5B1ce if desired. Most toilet fixture manufacturers now produce toilets known as something like "comfort height" which have the seat equivalent to a chair, higher then the traditional toilet, which are easier for sitting and rising for any age.

Lastly, let's talk about tubs and showers. If floor space below a shower area allows, a shower can be recessed so that its entry is flush with the bathroom floor for roll-in access. "Wet area designs", in which the shower floor doubles as the entry to the tub, can use space in a very efficient manner, and basically allows a tiled portion of a room to act as a shower. Trench drains at the edge of the tiling can prevent water from escaping. If a shower cannot be recessed, nor a "wet area" desired, there are collapsible rubber water barriers, which will allow a wheelchair access into a shower, while keeping water in, although this is not as desirable a solution. Minimally, a shower should be 36" deep to minimize uneven surfaces and should allow sufficient space to accommodate grab bars and a seat, so that a person can use the facility in a comfortable and safe manner.

This article is meant to be an introduction to some solutions to common issues that arise in homes as the occupant's age, and the writer suggests that you contact your architect or contractor for more specific information about the possibilities in your home.

Susan Rosenstadt-Bresler is an architect, with a master in business administration from a well-known eastern business school. She works in real estate development, architectural visualization, 3d model creation, and website and software development. Her software and some illustrations for this article can be found at http://www.3dhomedecorator.com/ and her renderings and architectural visualizations can be seen at http://www.3dhomedecorator.com/render.htm

Shear Panel With Mold

How To Choose The Best Air Duct Cleaning Service In Fargo ND - Tips To Get Really Clean Air Ducts

What should you look for in an air duct cleaning company here in the Fargo-Moorhead area? Although there are many companies to choose from large and small, here are a few tips that can help you make the right decision.

Tip #1- Ask how the company cleans your air ducts and furnace. Cleaning air ducts involves simply removing dust and debris from the ducts of your heating and cooling system, along with the furnace itself. Some companies use pressurized air and a vacuum to suck up the dust, other companies use a high tech cable/brush system to "wipe" the dust out of your system with powerful vacuums that suck up the dust and debris.

Tip #2- Ask WHO will be doing the work. This is important. If the company you choose is extremely large, they might send a new or newly trained employee/tech out to your home to clean. This might be fine for some jobs, but sometimes these techs do not have the attention to detail needed to get your heating/cooling systems really clean. Other companies have the owner/operator and perhaps company partners doing the work, which usually results in much better end results.

Tip #3- Ask about a firm quote. Make sure you get a firm quote from the company before they do the work. Most companies in the Fargo-Moorhead area provide a free consultation for air duct cleaning, but be sure to ask when you call. Beware of companies advertising a very low price. Often, these are "bait and switch" offers that may end up costing you more than you expect because they will try to "upsell" you extra services that should probably already be included in the price. Some companies not only provide a free quote up front, but also give you a video camera inspection so you can see exactly what condition your air duct system is in.

Tip #4- Ask for references. This is good because any company that does a good job should have willing satisfied clients they can use as references. Beware of companies that do not readily give this information.

These four tips should arm you with the information and questions you need to ask when you call an air duct cleaning company in the Fargo-Moorhead area. This will help you find the right company and get the best service available.

John McTighe is the owner and marketing director of Big Fish Service Company a local air duct cleaning company in the Fargo-Moorhead area. Mr. McTighe has 12 years of experience in the cleaning and maintenance industry and provides the most up-to-date methods of cleaning available. You can reach Mr. McTighe directly at 701-306-7026 (local call in the F-M area).

Readers are encouraged to visit his web site and blog for more information, testimonials and before/after pictures.

Fireplace Stack With Stucco

When Finishing Your Attic is the Best Choice, And When It Isn't

When trying to increase the amount of living space in a home, there are several options to consider. Remodeling or finishing an attic into needed living space is certainly one option. There are others, as well. These include finishing a basement or garage or adding onto your existing home.

The decision about how you will add living space must factor in such considerations as cost, available space to place an addition, the intended use of the space, and the ability to provide appropriate access to the new area. You will need to think through each of these considerations in making a decision.

In considering cost, the critical points to review are these:

If you work with an existing space (basement, attic, garage) you should not incur the expense of a roof, exterior walls, or foundation, unlike a traditional addition or 2nd story, which may need a foundation, several exterior walls, and a foor

You should consider the return on your investment. If you can add a room, bathroom or other living space that increases your home at a small expense, it is likely to give you one of the highest rates of return.

Is it reasonable to include an 1161additional bathroom? Adding a bathroom will increase the value of your home, but you must consider the costs incurred in building it. For example, will construction of a bathroom in an attic require reinforcement of the walls to support the weight?

If you wish to do the work yourself, are you better prepared to finish an existing space or build an addition? Do you know enough about insulating and wiring a attic or a basement?

What are the implications of your choice in terms of the adequacy of your current heating and cooling system? Will you need new ductwork or an auxiliary furnace or AC unit?

You can get an instant online estimate for finishing your attic at http://www.remodelestimates.com/calculators/intor.cfm?ver=21.

The next question is whether there is space for an addition to your home. Here are some questions to consider:

Will local building codes and zoning laws allow an addition?

How much yard will you have left after you build the addition?

Will local building codes and zoning laws allow the type of addition you are planning and the type of materials you plan to use?

How will you provide access from the existing structure into the new living space? How much change to the existing structure will be required?

The intended use of the new space might argue against a particular choice. For example, if you plan to use the new space as a home office, you might need to consider such things as:

Will you need external access to the space?

How much heavy equipment will be placed in the area? Will that weight require reinforcement of the floors or walls?

Alternatively, if the space is to be used as a bedroom or playroom, you should consider such things as:

Are there special accessibility issues (for example, someone with a disability or an aging parent)?

Do you need to add a bathroom, or is another bathroom close enough?

How will you provide adequate lighting (for example, adding a gable or a skylight)?

Does your basement offer a dry enough environment?

Finally, you will need to understand and accommodate access issues. A few of the more critical questions to consider are these:

Do local building codes require more than one means of access or egress from the room?

Can you plan for emergency escape?

How will you ensure adequate ventilation?

How much change to the existing home will be required in order to provide access to the new living space?

These are some of the major questions to consider when deciding whether finishing an attic is the best choice for your home and your family. By taking these factors into consideration you can evaluate whether finishing an attic is the best decision for your family and your current home. By calculating the cost, considering modifications to your existing home and yard, how the new space will be used, and what other changes are required to provide access, you can make a wise decision. If you are considering an attic remodel, I strongly recommend reviewing the Attic Remodeling Workbook available at www.amazon.com to ensure that you understand the complexities and challenges involved.

Attic Remodeling is very likely to be the solution to your need for additional space. These questions will help you ask the most important questions and make a wise decision.

Dan Fritschen, the author of this article, is the founder of the websites
http://www.remodelormove.com
http://www.remodelestimates.com and
http://www.remodelingorganizer.com

He is the author of three books on home remodeling.

Bad Wood Handrail

Building Added Value Professional Support Functions

For professionals not involved in sales or front line service delivery it can sometimes feel like what you are doing is not adding value or your value is not recognised.

So how can you start to build credibility and really demonstrate the value you deliver to your organisation?

Get Clear On What You Are Here To Do

It might seem like a really obvious question but:

What are you here to do?

Are you only interested in your area of expertise, say Finance, HR or Law?

How interested are you in other areas of the business?

Do you want to train executives and managers on how to be more knowledgeable in your areas of expertise?

What impact do you want to make?

Get Clear On The Benefits You Deliver

One of the key questions others outside of professional support services function might ask is:

How is the business getting benefit from the significant amount of investment in the professional support functions?

Could you list 10 benefits that your function will bring to the business? Within the 10 is there at least one benefit that is so compelling that managers will be eager to work with you?

Find Out What Your Clients Want

When was the last time that you did some structured research to find out what your clients want? Being clear about what they want allows you to respond to their needs and add value.

Create A Vision For Your Function

In his book The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, one of the habits Stephen Covey promotes is to Begin With The End In Mind. At a basic level this means what outcomes do you want. Develop and Implement an Action Plan To Take You Forward

Now that you are clear what you are here to do, the difference you want to make, know what your clients want and the outcomes you want to achieve you can start thinking about how to create it. Document it in action plan with clearly defined deliverables.

Review, Refine and Adapt Your Plan

Even with the best of intentions, you are not likely to get it 100% right immediately. Set up a process for getting feedback from the business on the changes you are making and the impact that they are having. Use the feedback process to adjust and revise your plans so that the whole focus is on continuous improvement.

Professional support functions have a tremendous amount to offer businesses but will encounter resistance. Continuing to build the credibility of your function can transform functions from technically great specialists to essential business advisors who make outstanding contributions to business success.

Duncan Brodie is a Leadership Development Coach and Management Trainer at Goals and Achievements http://www.goalsandachievements.co.uk

He specialises in helping accountants and professionals to make the transition from technical expert to manager and leader. As a former Finance Director he has real experience of the challenges faced by accountants and professionals in business.

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Building Teamwork: Helping Your Team Take Responsibility for Their Results

The end of the year in an organization is often a time of reflection and evaluation. As I look back over the decisions I have made over the past 12 months, I evaluate them to see how they have affected our company and what I might do differently. As I reflect, I am paying attention to that voice in my head that is tempted to blame our failures on other people (or organizations) while taking complete credit for our successes. If I want my team to work together effectively, I have to resist this impulse to assign blame or credit.

I recall an incident that occurred in my life several years ago that is emblematic of this tendency to blame other people for the unfortunate events that happen in our lives. I was in my car at a green light waiting for a pedestrian to pass so that I could turn right at a street corner. Suddenly a truck hit the back of my car. It was a US Post Office truck driven by an employee who proceeded to back up and drive away from the scene of the accident. Given that those trucks have a large identifying number on the back, this was not such a great idea. I wrote that number down and followed him straight to the post office where I told a supervisor what happened. The supervisor left to get the official paperwork. As the two of us stood looking at the back end of my car, he actually said to me in a accusing tone of voice: "Well, I hope you're happy. You just made me lose my job."

I remember that situation and his comment whenever I am tempted to blame someone else for the consequences of my own actions. To avoid that, I find it useful to ask myself: How have I contributed to this outcome? What would I do differently if I could do this over? The next time I face this problem what will I do?

When we lead teams, we can help them develop this habit of taking personal responsibility for their part in a difficult outcome. The trick is to do it without blaming them or ourselves. We can lay the foundation by talking through the issue or challenge with phrases such as:

• As I think about what happened, I can see that I contributed by....
• We all share responsibility for this outcome. For instance, I wish that I had....
• The next time we handle this challenge, I plan to....

And we can also help our employees and co-workers take ownership of their part by asking questions such as:

• Looking back, how do you think you played a part in this?
• If you could do it over again, what would you do differently?
• What steps do you plan to take the next time you face this situation?

When people make clear statements that demonstrate that they are taking at least partial ownership of a challenging situation, we can reinforce their positive behavior by making statements such as:

• I really appreciate your ability to look at this challenge objectively.
• I think your assessment of this situation is right on target.
• I trust that you will succeed next time. These are great ideas.
• Thank you for talking this problem through so that we can work together to get better results.

As we model taking ownership and responsibility and as we recognize this same level of personal responsibility demonstrated by others, we reinforce a positive cycle that paves the way to healthy, collaborative teamwork.

So what will it be? A team that is at the mercy of lunkheads in other departments? Or a team that is confident in its ability to meet any challenge? It's your choice.

Cynthia Clay is the President/CEO of NetSpeed Leadership: http://netspeedleadership.com We meet the learning needs of managers, supervisors, and individual contributors in small to mid-sized organizations. Our programs blend interactive instruction techniques with online reinforcement tools to extend learning beyond the classroom. With this holistic approach, our clients quickly launch programs, train participants, reinforce skills, and measure the impact. To learn more about developing a high-performance team, look at Building the Total Team, one of 23 modules in the Netspeed Leadership training system.

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Basic Brand Building

A brand is the essence of who you are. The more powerful the brand the more memorable you will become. Think about brands that you can identify with. What impresses you about them and what attributes make you remember them? Brand icons didn't get that way over night and many of them have failed because they couldn't "connect" with their audience. Strong brands will stand the test of time.

After you have thought about strong compelling brands that impressed you start building your own brand statement by distilling down your essential core message: Who are you and how do you want people to identify with you? What values do you represent? When people think about you what image do you want them to visualize? Think about what sets you apart from you associates. This is about building your own image so forget the company or business in your personal brand statement.

Now that you have started thinking about your core message consider ways that you can reinforce your brand. Remember YOU are the brand, not your product or service, so this is essentially about you. Where and how can you demonstrate your brand message? When and how can you reinforce your brand?

Your brand needs to be authentic, from the heart; you can't make a brand statement believable about something you are not. When evaluating your brand message it's important to understand your audience who are you trying to impress with you message? What do you want them to remember? You are creating your own "personal buzz" with your brand so the more you can hone in on your audience the better you can craft your message. It?s important to recognize that you can?t be all things to all people so you want to capture your target audience with your message.

Everything you do should have your brand image, whether it?s giving a speech, writing a letter or the message heard on your voice mail. The brand is a living thing, the more you utilize it the more powerful it will become. Building a brand is like using a set of building blocks. One piece doesn't make much of a structure but 20 pieces will. Think about how you can build your brand by adding pieces to enforce the totality of the structure "you." Getting outside opinions helps your cause. When people think about you what assets to they remember? If it?s different than what you are tying to convey then you need to reshape your message.

Take a moment to study the brand messages of people you admire or hope to model. Using the Internet is a great place to do this. Type in the name of the person in quotation on any search engine and see what turns up. It should give you ideas on ways to craft your own message.

Think about how many places you have your name listed on a piece of paper or the Internet. That?s where you should be building your identity here a short list of places you should be making your brand shine.

Voice mail
Business cards
Stationery
Email address & SIG file
Personal website
Press releases

Personal branding will help you stand apart from your competition. Whatever the circumstances your brand can only enhance your identification in the marketplace. Keep on refining and honing your brand message as you become more comfortable with whom you are.

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This workbook cuts through the clutter in a simplified, straightforward manner and drastically reduces the time it takes to build your personal brand.

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Don't take my word for it. Hear what Linda has to say "JoAnn provided me with the no-nonsense approach I was lacking in my business. I needed new and fresh ways to promote my business; and JoAnn helped me focus on goal setting and finding concrete ways to reach my target audience.>

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Buying Your First Home And Sleeping Well At Night

The real estate process of buying a home for the typical family can be a very stressful event, almost at the top of the charts. The selection of a professional agent can be a tremendous benefit as a counselor and guide to navigate you through the process with as little stress as possible. The average home buyer spends very little time interviewing and investigating agents for the role as their agent.

The first part of the home buying process for many is the desire to look at homes and not the careful selection of a real estate agent. This can be a huge mistake as the knowledge and experience level of an agent can change the outcome of the stressful process to a smooth one. Many homebuyers end up with an agent by default, what I mean by this is that the buyer has no plan of action for selecting their agent. The introduction may have been as casual as the buyer calling on an ad or attending an open house.

Of course you want to start the home buying process with a strong foundation and finding the right agent will make a big difference in the total experience. As a first time home buyer you will depend on the expertise of your agent. You will not know what to expect or when to expect it within this very challenging process.

You will want to interview several agents before you even start looking for a home. By pursuing an interview process you will also educate yourself. Here are several areas you will want to discuss with agents that you are interviewing.

1. What is the experience level of the agent? Selecting someone that has at least two years or more of experience will show they have survived the test of time and the knowledge to assist you in the home buying process.

2. What is the geographical area that they service. As an agent works in a given neighborhood they will gain additional non-real estate knowledge such as which area has better schools, less rush-hour traffic or lower crime rates.

3. Does the agent carry errors and omissions insurance? This protects them and you when there is a contractual issue or an undisclosed defect in the home. The Department of real estate doesn't require a broker to carry it, and this is not something you want to find out after closing.

4. Many agents work only on a buyer broker agreement basis, you will be asked to sign a contract for several months during which you will be obligated to work with this agent exclusively for that time period. Other agents will ask you for this agreement once they have worked with you, both parties feel it is a good relationship, and you are ready to make an offer.

5. Always ask for references. A good agent will have their references ready for you.

6. In order to serve their client as best as possible some agents have decided not to represent both a buyer and seller in the same transaction. One of the main reasons for this is that it is very difficult to be an advocate for two parties with opposite goals.

7. How does the agent select the homes that they show you? Many agents will e-mail their clients a lot of properties and let the buyer decide which homes to see, this can be a very ineffective and time consuming process in which the buyer sees many homes that do not suit their needs. The best agents will preview all of the homes on the market that fit a buyers general criteria and then show their client only the best homes. This process leads to a much more efficient and beneficial outcome for the buyer.

8. Does the agent have a close relationship with a trustworthy and knowledgeable lender? By working closely with the lender an agent will be more able to guide the process ensuring that the buyer gets the best loan program for their situation and is only looking at homes that fit their budget.

So as you can see, by methodically and strategically selecting an agent you can positively influence the outcome of your home purchase.

Co-written by Randy Nathan and James Dedolph, creators of HomeSniffer.com where you can find Homes for Sale in San Diego and LoanSniffer.net where you can find the best rate and terms for Homes Loans in San Diego. Both of these sites are a good resource for information about San Diego Real Estate.

Skylight Articles

American Indians and Plants in the Great Basin of North America - An Ancient Relationship

Originally, many scholars viewed the possibility of this ancient relationship with some skepticism, primarily because of the early anthropological work of Julian Steward, and the overall general unfamiliarity with the Great Basin environment. Rather than according the American Indians of the Great Basin the knowledge and cultural sophistication they deserved for sustainably and symbiotically living in their homeland, scholars hypothesized that indigenous Great Basin peoples were:

1) the least developed in terms of cultural sophistication and complexity,
2) had only recently migrated into the Great Basin from more resource rich areas, and
3) had little or no knowledge of Great Basin ecology. Therefore,
4) they were a dying cultural group that required little or no consultation in contemporary Great Basin resource issues.

As researchers began to actually work with Great Basin peoples, and slowly learned the epistemic value of their traditional ecological knowledge, a very different understanding has emerged. It became apparent that the Paiute, Shoshone, and other indigenous people of the Great Basin have been in their traditional homelands for thousands of years, and that their traditional lifeways and the general Great Basin ecosystem were only recently disrupted by Euroamerican colonial processes. Further, it became clear as more research was conducted that an ancient relationship between American Indians and plants in the Great Basin existed, and that knowledge from such a relationship could offer insights into restoring the Great Basin ecosystem and other natural resources problems currently at issue.

The Great Basin is a region encompassing more than 115,800 square miles between the Sierra Nevada of California in the west and the Wasatch Range of Utah in the east. The region is bounded to the north by the lower Snake River plain in Idaho and to the south by the Grand Canyon and Colorado River. Composed of a series of large, internally draining basins in which seasonal lacustrine marshes and lakes form, the Great Basin has historically provided a rich variety of resources that American Indians have relied upon for 10,000 years or more. Furthermore, these seasonally dry and sparsely vegetated basins are geographically divided by a series of north to south mountain ranges that historically provided resources in a seasonal cycle from the basin floor to the upper mountain slopes. As a result of this geography, perennial mountain streams form each spring that historically provided a number of riverine based floral resources. By knowing the environment, weather, and geography of the Great Basin, American Indians could successfully find plant resources at all times of the year. Evidence for this ancient and symbiotic relationship comes primarily from archaeological and ethnographic data, although biological data also supports these conclusions.

The archaeological evidence, which has become more refined and extensive since the time of early theories discussing American Indians of the Great Basin, argues that American Indians and plants of the Great Basin have shared an 8,000 year or longer relationship. In the eastern Great Basin, for example, the earliest evidence of people in the area comes from sites located along prehistoric lakeshores in the basin floors where people subsisted largely on seasonally available lacustrine resources. Later, evidence indicates that Great Basin peoples began to also utilize upland regions that were situated in the pion-juniper ecozones, allowing access to sage and grass communities as well as higher montane resources. Faunal and floral macrofossils, coupled with pollen analyses from across the Great Basin, further evidences a dependence on wetland food resources augmented with small seeds from dryland plants beginning in the early Holocene (9600-7000 years ago) and continuing into the ethnographic period. Although other resources apparently fluctuated over time in the diets of Great Basin peoples, plant-based resources remained constant.

Not only was plant-life exploited for subsistence purposes, but peoples of the Great Basin also used floral resources in the construction of shelters, mats, clothing, and especially baskets. The exploitation of plant-life in the construction of baskets was so important, in fact, that it has been possible to identify at least three distinct basketry manufacturing regions. Each region had special characteristics that delineated it from other basketry manufacturing styles, such as in the northern Great Basin where at least 13 different basket wall-construction techniques have been identified over time. These include at least six different coiling techniques and seven basic twining methods such as close simple twining, close diagonal twining, and open simple twining.

Beginning in the 1800s, however, contact with Euroamericans and their cultural products (i.e., diseases, material goods, weapons, horses, etc.) resulted in a disruption of the millennia old relationship between American Indians and plants of the Great Basin. This disruption was rapid and severe, as thousands of Euroamericans entered the Great Basin to begin agricultural, industrial, or resource extraction endeavors. These processes and events, such as the now famous Comstock mining explosion, or the development of the Newlands project near present-day Reno, or the massive cattle and sheep ranching operations that took place in the early and middle twentieth century, completely disrupted the ancient symbiotic relationship between American Indians and plants in the Great Basin.

These colonizing processes of the 1800s radically changed the ecology of the Great Basin. The seasonal marshes and lacustrine resources were either trampled, drained, or consumed. Large areas were transformed into agricultural fields that produced non-indigenous agricultural products. Giant mines and their waste transformed entire mountains and watersheds, polluting the land and making it impossible for the native plants to grow. As a result of these and many other processes, the relationship between American Indians and plants of the Great Basin has been seriously tested. Unable to access traditional resources and areas, much of this relationship has been maintained through oral traditions, ceremonial and religious practices, and in the minds and hearts of tribal elders. Today, however, there may be hope for reinvigorating this ancient relationship once again.

Great Basin peoples are beginning to establish cultural programs that teach their youth ancient cultural values and knowledge. Environmentalists and resource managers are attempting to clean up mines and restore watersheds, and applied and action-oriented social scientists are advocating for the inclusion of Great Basin peoples voices in resource issues. Together these processes bring hope to a formally bleak picture. By working together, it is possible to once again allow this relationship between American Indians and plants of the Great Basin to flourish. Through communication, consultation, and collaboration this relationship can not only flourish, but it can be strengthened by the addition of all voices involved.

My name is Peter N. Jones, Ph.D. I am a social scientists with the Bauu Institute in Boulder, Colorado where I work on environmental, psychological, and social science issues. I have written numerous articles and two books: Respect for the Ancestors: American Indian Cultural Affiliation in the American West and American Indian mtDNA, Y Chromosome Genetic Data, and the Peopling of North America. I am also author of Indigenous Issues Today a syndicated news blog.

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